ADJUSTABLE KETTLEBELLS

Kettlestack assembly involves bolting a handle onto a stack of weights (pic on right of "wings" surrounding a core).
Since most kettlebell motions are functional and engage multiple body parts, you won't find a need for repeated, small adjustments that folks expect with adjustable dumbbells.

(Click the pair to your left, or HERE for our video!!)

The easy two-phase assembly, along with the Kettlestack's unique quickchange feature conveniently provides a wide range of weights.

STEPS:

1. group the center core
2. slide the bands over the core
3. slide axle through the arms and the core
4. tighten the right wing with the right
5. if(1bolt) tighten the left wing against the axle flange w/left bolt (there's no need to tighten the bolt's past snug).

The major points on Kettlestack assembly include:

1. deciding which weight to setup-Start with a weight you can curl- you can change it later.
2. deciding on one-bolt or two-bolt setups.
3. setting the correct core width and taper
4. getting a nice shape.
   * Our front page isn't staged or contrived- wonderfully comfortable shapes in about a minute; T his shape flexibility is a basic part of the Kettlestack design.
   * However, we cannot assemble your Kettlestack for you; Please follow the instructions (email us if you get stuck) and you'll have a nice, round Kettlestack that's functionally equivalent to a cast KB for snatches,presses and cleans.

One/Two Bolts ?

The kettlestack axle allows you to build either one-bolt(narrow) or two-bolt (wide) setups. You can see (right) that at a stack width of between 6" and 7" you have the option of going either way.

A good Kettlestack shape (somewhere between a sphere and rugby football) is going to be at least as wide as it is tall- you shouldn't use a pair of 10's to make a 20lb Kstack. The simpler one-bolt is for the narrower,lighter setups below 35 lbs, while the more flexible two-bolt is required (a safe amount of bolt overlap) for heavier stacks over 40lbs or 7" in width.

You now have a fully functioning Kettlestack that probably looks something like the picture on the left. There is nothing between you and a great workout. Even so you, you might want to learn how to achieve a shape similar to the rounded ones (right).

The overall approach is simple: if a plate's edge sticks out enough to dig in, loosen the plates and push the offending high point flush or slightly below it's neighbors.

On the right is a photo of two nominal 55lb setups that have been shifted to remove the edge; The left setup has three 10s, and a pair of 7.5,5 lb plates, while the right has four 10s, and a pair of 5, and 2.5 lb plates. Note:

* The forearm would touch about 3 plates (5,7.5 and outer 10 lb) if it was resting diagonally across the plates (a typical GS setup)
* The plates have been shifted-see how the front profile has been rounded at the expense of the back profile.

As in the video (right), to form the shape,loosen the bolts, let the plates "sag" into a common kitchen bowl and retighten. That's it! about 30 seconds.Note that since the handle is touching the ground (watch the video), the bowl is rounding out the "patch" of the Kettlestack that the forearm will touch.

On the right is a photo of two nominal 55lb setups that have been shifted to remove the edge; The left setup has three 10s, and a pair of 7.5,5 lb plates, while the right has four 10s, and a pair of 5, and 2.5 lb plates. Note:

* The forearm would touch about 3 plates (5,7.5 and outer 10 lb) if it was resting diagonally across the plates (a typical GS setup)
* The plates have been shifted-see how the front profile has been rounded at the expense of the back profile.

Review of how to make a nice, round Kettlestack:

1. The slack between axle and holes lets you tweak the shape.
2. The right set of tapered plates (possibly including the 7.5lb plates) makes it very easy to get the desired shape)
3. You can easily remove edges with the "bowl trick" or equivalent.

If you have any Qs, please email us and thanks for reading.